Tillers and Tastebuds

To avid readers - A Little help if you are going to look at the Photos

The difficulty

Some readers have experienced difficulty in returning to this page from the photo albums in the left hand column. Like everything to do with computers, it's easy when you know how!

Here's how

When you click on any of the thumbnail pictures in the left column, "voila!" you will find a whole series of thumbnail photos (albums) relating to the events recorded in that particular occasion. Each thumbnail can then be enlarged by clicking on them in turn to get a decent sized picture to view.

To return to this page however, ie the one you are now reading, you will see that there is a strip of white text on grey background located just above the pictures-Like the following but white text on a grey backgound

Tillersandtastebuds.typepad.com>"albumsname" 

Click on the first bit of this and "Voila encore" you're back to the text from whence you came or use the "back" arrow in the top left hand corner of your screen.

Do us a favour, mate! (or, It isn't all plain sailing, y'know! Part 9)

Like any other good team,  activities are shared equably between each member according to their skills and inclinations. This way, provided it is not, to coin a phrase,  “beyond our collective ken”,  tasks on board get done and problems solved pretty well. Tanks get filled and emptied, food gets sourced, bought and cooked, wood gets cut, washing up done, dogs get walked and fed, engines get serviced, surfaces get painted, general domestic and administrative matters sorted etc etc – you know how it is -  I keep an eye on the rate of exchange and do all the rest!

Don’t be fooled by the simplicity of this idea. It’s quite often “beyond our Ken”. Barge owners like George and Sue and us – proper “live-aboards” as we call ourselves – live a life of constant problem solving, some of which would tax the best skills of Barry Bucknal, just to keep our homes up to the mark and comfortable, for the rest of our planned lives. It is called survival. We don’t have the luxury nor the money to leave the problem to next year’s summer visit or to some agent or even to sell the boat to some other sucker and pop back to the safety of the house back home when things go wrong. Take George’s recent engine problem for instance. His original old engine in Vertrouwen suffered catastrophic failure, which meant he had to buy a new one and have it fitted, whilst still living aboard and still afloat. No mean feat, I can tell you.

I mean, I can bang a nail in like the rest of them, but George, he's an original -  fearful of nothing, he can turn his hand to any job however challenging it may seem to the likes of us normal DIY enthusiasts. He has proved our saviour on several occasions.  So the affectionate word “Mate” becomes an important part of our every day vocabluary. George and I use it all the time and, believe me, you don't have to hail from Orpington! 

There is no real equivalent to the slang English word “mate” in French although George is indeed ”notre copain”  – George and Sue are “nos copains” – she being a “copine” – but  ”Thanks mate”  translates as “merci mon vieux”  and to me this isn’t quite the same somehow. Anyway, we have become important “mates” with George and Sue. We have come to know them (and their visiting family) well over the last year or so as we have travelled through the Canals going westwards and for the summer season on the Lot. We get on well and there is much laughter and raucous rivalry, especially between George and me. More importantly, there is a tremendous amount of “mutual aid” between us. (a term first coined by the famous biologist and philosopher Propopkin, I believe).

As mates we like to be independent of each other but are always on hand to help when help is needed or even sometimes when it isn’t.  Whatever the problem, he has the best answer and he has helped me on an embarrassingly large number of occasions - too many to write about now. 

In return there are some notable failures on my part as a "mate". For instance - was I there to help George in his hour of need, to remove some drunken thugs from his boat in the middle of the night after the  evening market at Fongrave? No I was not. Both Lucie and I were there but on the

boat next door fast asleep and oblivious to his plight until the next morning. I have always wanted to use my black truncheon too! 

Beyond making the jokes, I have not been a lot of help over his engine problems either – he has had a real professional to do that - anyway perhaps jokes were not altogether appropriate when Sue fell down the engine room hatch, braking her collar bone and badly spraining her ankle, but it is all that could be expected of me in the circs. I was glad to be able to help George by crewing Vertrouwen on her first run with the new engine, to her winter mooring in Castelsarrasin from its mooring at Malause - It was quite a laugh when his steering gear failed because of a sheered pin in the drive chain as we came out of a lock – with four of the eight locks still to go. I steered Vertrouwen using the emergency tiller stuck between my legs on the stern, whilst George operated the levers in the Wheelhouse. We both managed the ropes too. It was a splendid team effort. No-one even noticed.

For their part, George and Sue have not only dragged us off the rocks at Clairac (see “Champagne on the Rocks” above) but have been marvelous and energetic collectors of fallen wood for our ever-hungry wood burner. Frankly, I have to admit that Lucie has been a greater help to both George and Sue than I, especially with her fluent language skills which must have been very helpful to them, as indeed it is to me, since virtually they have none. She has steered them through the morass of French bureaucracy with her usual aplomb and is now giving regular French lessons to the pair of them.

And so it goes on. George will no doubt be helping me install my five new domestic batteries which will be arriving from the UK any day now. We had considerable difficulty in getting two faulty batteries out and temporarily wiring the remaining three in.  After I accidentally cut a hole in one of them with my angle grinder whilst hacking off a badly designed front bit of the battery box ( releasing a fairly lethal amount of acid on to the engine room floor ) he will no doubt be offended if I tried to do the job by myself. Thank God for George say I, he’s a bloody good mate !

 

 

Cabin Fever takes hold - Lucie's first blog venture

The weather has been quite dreary, foggy and damp the last few weeks.  We both looked at each other over the leisurely breakfast we enjoy every morning, and simultaneously  agreed that it was time to do something to change our mood.

I looked up the trains to see what was feasible for a day trip and we settled on Cahors.  We had driven fleetingly to it with our french friend Betty last winter. We  also  wanted to do a little "rekkie" to see if the winter mooring on that side of the Lot river might be  even more appealing than the lower end of the Lot.   We had been discussing various options for the future.   As usual I am always planning too far ahead, but I believe that good things are usually taken up very speedily by others, so it is just as well to be ahead of the crowd!

I chose market day for our day out, called our two friends Chris and Siobhan who live quite close to Cahors to see if they fancied meeting up.  They were delighted and we settled on the Café Interlude as the place to start with a hot café créme and croissant at 9 am.

 

Everything went according to plan. It meant an early start. Spud and Teds looked suspiciously at the back-pack Malcolm had got out, in which to put shopping.  George  kindly agreed to let the boys out midday. We would be back late afternoon.  They  looked unconvinced but the dark and damp morning air was not to their liking either  so they settled in the warm boat to await our return and be "on guard" during our abscence.

All the trains were more or less on time, we had to change at Montauban but the whole journey only took us 1hr.30mins including the delay of 15mins.   Having studied our Rough Guide we knew which direction to take after arriving at the station.  We were too early for Chris and Siobhan so decided to take a preliminary peek at the market taking place around the cathedral - not many people about but it looked colourful and welcoming.  Within a few minutes some delicious rocket, purple carrots and some fresh pasta had been purchased. Then it was time to meet our friends.

Much laughter as Chris arrived in his hat sporting a feather to compete with Malcolm's Indiana Jones brown one!  The little café was full of habitués being enthusiastically welcomed and served by the patron.  A quick catch up on our respective snipets of news and off we went to discover more culinary treasures amidst the market stalls.   I dashed from one stall to another rather like the black labrador in the DHL ads. In the end Chris and Malcolm decided to stand patiently chatting to each other in the middle of the market, enabling me to go on my buying spree, spasmodically returning to deposit my purchases in the rucksack on Malcolm's back.  Happy and satiated, having indulged my "food fix",  and to my delight,  found some chervil tubers which I had not seen since the weekly market in Briare in Burgundy.  These are a delicious cross between parsnips and chesnuts, in flavour and looking like small brown carrots.  Beautiful dark green shiny watercress, fresh mackerel and a mixture of wild mushrooms were added to the bag.  Recipes were rushing round my excited head.  Just before leaving we decided to  pop into the covered market "Les Halles", a veritable cornucoppia of deliciousness.  However, my jaw did drop to the floor and my specs trembled off the end of nose as I spied a brie,  layered with black truffles at 130 euros per kilo!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cahors  is practically  surrounded by the majestic  river Lot which meanders round  its "teardrop" shape.  It's medieval origins have been well  restored, and arguably, its most famous building is the 14th century Valentré bridge. (see album on left column for more).   We were happily guided through its various alleyways dotted with unusual architectural details adorning the front of the charasmatic houses.

Whilst walking round Chris had been pointing out various little inns and restaurants as lunch was going to be part of our day out.  We finally settled on a charming, simple, french frequented, restaurant in one of the narrow alleys.  We enjoyed the hors d'oeuvre trolley, sander fillet poached and placed on top of a mound of steamed potatoes, carrots, leeks and turnips all drizzled with some of the fish stock, followed by various desserts and cheese, lashing of full bodied and delicious Cahors local wine.  Good service with a smile and a more than bearable hole in our wallet.  Menu was 11.50 euros each!  Chris peppered the conversation with amusing ditties, as ever, which had us laughing a lot.  He re-appeared from the loo apologising for having chosen a restaurant doubling as a brothel.  He had seen a sign perched on the washbasin  "Hors Service".  He is as quick as a flash! (it means out of order!).

Refreshed and now totally charmed by Cahors we eagerly set out in their car to have a look at the possible winter mooring quayside owned by Monsieur Babou, the very same man who also owns the marina in the Port of St Sylvestre on the other stretch of the Lot where we moored in the summer.  But his boatyard was the only access to a very dreary mooring through a very untidy and unattractive yard.   It would have been too good to be true if everything had worked out, but getting Body & Soul to Cahors for a future winter's mooring is now out of the question - never mind - it was time to take the train home.  Our friends kindly dropped us off at the station and, amid plans to meet again on Body & Soul for a little 2 day cruise, we hugged and parted.

 

Our day out had done the trick, our mood was upbeat, the discovery of pastures new had tickled  our tastebuds and we came home eager for the locks to open in February so that Mon Capitaine  could once again take hold the the tiller and start the next season's adventure.

That's it for now, but recipes will follow in due course, keep peeking, recipes and visuals soon to follow,  à la prochaine!

Our best new year wishes to all "rellies" and friends

Lucie and I  had a great few days over the Christmas and new year celebratory period. We are at Castelsarrasin, moored here for the winter with all services provided for a very sensible fee, having had an extremely pleasant and economical summer season on the river Lot. Our Jotul wood burner is permanently burning now with gathered wood from the canal side. We are warm and well and have lots to do and plenty to share it with. We have even joined the local choir, at nearby Moissac and performed several concerts in the local Abbey and other locations. Lucie has cooked several extravagant feasts, both traditional and regional. (See photo albums left) We've drunk a lot of the local wine - enough, I reckon, to light up several seasonal lanterns.

 

The weather here has been like the UK, very dreary and depressing most of the time - Very little sunshine. Apparently this is most unusual for the area. But, metaphorically speaking, the clouds were lifted dramatically upon the arrival of two Grandchildren, Emily (13) and Cameron (10) Walker ( Jake and Rosemary's children) who visited "Body and Soul" from the 20th Dec to the 24th when they departed, care of AirFrance/Klm, to enjoy a family  Christmas up north in Yorkshire. This was three days of uninterrupted laughter and activity, including a visit to a very provincial and traditional circus with Lions, camels and a hippo. Hilarious scrabble and cards went on through the night it seemed, not to mention the Dodge'm and Toboggan rides at the fun fare which goes with it.

Villeneuve -Sur- Lot

Both Lucie and I have been to the Uk to visit relatives of one kind or another. I'm glad to report that we have nothing but good news in this respect. Aunt Lois- on good form - is the same as ever and both Rob and I enjoyed a fine "cold collation" and a glass or two of wine at hers in Reigate. A snooze after lunch has become obligatory on such visits. I then stayed with Robert and Di down in Dover for a few days of fun, then legged it to sister Judy and Jerry in their new house in Peterborough. They are now within easy walking distance of Edward and Claire and most of their grandchildren. Jerry is notably better after his stroke. Judy arranged a super family pre-christmas lunch at hers and we visited Edward and Claire with Amanda, Harry and Lois who came  for a night with the intention of lugging me up north for a week at theirs. We played silly card games, drank a lot and fondled Ed's pet snakes. Yes snakes!

Jake, Rosemary and family are now back in China, Beijing. Jake in a new job with a Canadian Company and in a new house to go with it. Amanda and Alan, with whom I spent a week in December on their farm in  Barnard Castle, are busy with their two, Harry and Lois, not to mention two Jack Russell pups Otis and Lennie. I was there for Lois's 4th birthday  on the 8th Dec., held at the local sports centre with Amanda doing a splendid job with the catering. She has quite a flourishing business now. I had a lovely time there despite the snow and spent time with George and Jean Falshaw who came for a day. ( Alan's parents.) ( See photos in left column) Harry and Lois were just about to "break up" from school and there were carol services and so on to attend. All good stuff!

Emily on her 13th birthday - on board.

After one quick night's stay with Lucie's Sophie, Steven and Charlie   I took the EasyJet flight home to Toulouse from Bristol where Lucie came to meet me.

Clive and Aileen in the USA have now moved to Colorado and appear to be in good health but very busy with the Job move from Texas and moving into their new house. Thanks to the new technology we are in fairly regular contact over the "Skype" internet system with all the above, although sadly, I've not heard from Nick recently, I hope he's OK and look forward to seeing him and his partner out here soon.

Anyway, all the very best to all those interested and reading this stuff. Have a very happy year 2009 and please keep in touch with us. We love to hear your news, and hope to have a visit from you if you can. You will not regret it.

  Cameron, Emily and me waiting to be fed.

Click on the relevant photo album for more pictures in the left column of this blog. There willbe more added as I find them!

  

Champagne on the Rocks (It isn't all plain sailing, y'know! Part 8)

It may take some reading to find the reason for this title – Champagne on the rocks – I’ll come to this later……

We always seem to be celebrating something or entertaining someone. The river Lot has us in its grasp from  the 15th July when bro Robert has a 70th birthday celebration. It’s now September 25^th and we are stuck on it waiting for rain to fall on the Pyrenees so that the waters of the river Garonne rise high enough for us to get across it and back to the rest of the canal system. We are at Aiguillon which is a nice town with a good mooring and free facilities (Electricity and water) and two markets each week. Aiguillon is situated at the confluence of the two rivers. The weather is gorgeous and our last visitors, James and Cherry Liell, enjoy a day-trip upstream to Clairac and back – just 14kms in all. For James and me it's a big reunion and the first real contact since their wedding ten years ago. We drink a great deal of wine, eat lots of Lucie’s food and are taken out for a slap up dinner at their hotel in town the night before their departure – all good fun and far too short.

Then there's my surprise birthday celebration on Sunday 15^{th sept} – organised by Lucie – with Chris and Scioban Nunn and their friends Patric and Anne whom we met when we stayed at the Nunns. On this trip we go from Castelmoron to Clairac and back. I will be describing this later but it is rather embarrassing.

At Rob’s party – another famous family song.

 But let’s be clear about this, the great party – Rob’s 70th- is why we sailed up the Lot in the first place and although we are now stuck on it, as already explained, starting with his party and thereafter we have a simply marvelous time. We will be coming back next year, all being well.

The house hired for the party is easily large enough to accommodate all guests including sister Judy Rytina    ,  brought to us by courtesy of Ryan Air Gatwick – Toulouse and a jointly hired car. Much  is made of the house pool and terrace where we launch into a great lunch with a startling amount of bubbly and Lovely food from Nicola and Lucie too. Here we meet Chris and Scioban Nunn who  found the house for hire, quite near to them. I do my best to accompany Rob’s family who have  created a ditty about the "old lad". Judy, Lucie and I do our best with a silly monologue about his life so far, need I say more? We all might well  rehearse just a little more but there's no chance of that. It's the best of fun anyway.

Sister Judy, sadly without Jerry who is still recovering from a stroke, poor chap. He would have loved it. 

Following this lunch, a good warm up before the planned dinner at the Poule au Pot auberge at ………….. nearby, We arrive there, unsurprisingly late, having dropped off at the Nunns delightful house in ……… for a quick glass of early evening bubbly in their garden. We are already pushing the senses a bit by then but amazingly ready to eat what is yet to come. There, outside under the cherry trees and lanterns our table for 16 is already set, complete with a pile of plates at each setting all of which are to be used - A novel idea - I thought. A broth to start, then a Gizier salad – the best I’ve ever tasted, then a huge portion of traditional homemade foie gras to share amongst too few, I guess. But I do my best and help to eat it – quite a lot actually. Delicious! A liberal sprinkling of  both red and white wine. Then the main course for which there is a choice of Lamb or Duck, then the cheese course and pud too followed by coffee and …... Delightfully served by an intelligent waitress and the Madame overseeing. God knows how we all get home in one piece but we do and even then we go partying at the house until……. getting to know each other and ……. Judy, Lucie and I are up early next day and off after breakfast to prepare for the boat trip which is to follow…….It's a delightfully  damaging few days m’thinks.

George and Sue, our friends on Vertrouwen kindly offer to take half the party - we are technically both licensed to take a maximum of 8 people, so both boats take the lot up the Lot, (sorry), as far as allowed. This is a 16 km trip there and back. A gentle days outing starting and finishing at St. Sylvestre. A picnic lunch  prepared by the girls. A beautiful sunny day and a swim somewhere, lashed together somewhere midstream. Fantastic, despite the warning about snakes! Time to recover from the bashing the night before.

You will be wondering, I'm sure, what it is on my birthday trip that embarrasses me. Well you see, our surprise guests bring several bottles of champagne which we all drink as we proceed down the Lot from Castelmoron towards our destination at Clairac where we have a picnic in mind. As Captain of our boat, I should have known better and I am ashamed to say that I was ...er distracted enough by the general "bonhomie" that was going on, to make a "disastrous" navigational blunder.

Lunch on the rocks

As we approach Clairac in the downstream direction we see a magnificent stone arched bridge. The arch on the extreme left is the only one marked for boats to enter. The other much bigger arches, unusually -  I have to say in my defence - have no signs at all. Not even a red one. The reason for this peculiarity does not occur to the unwary until it is too late and they find themselves being guided to the Lock. I should know better because I have steered this very course before. But having gone through this arch I decided to round the marker buoy on my right and direct the boat to the quay at Clairac on our right, quite forgetting the purpose of this marker buoy which was to stop mariners from sailing onto the underwater rocks. 

It was a bad move. Body and Soul suddenly grinds to a slithery halt on what appears to be a flat stone wall. We are well and truly stuck! No need for mooring ropes here, I think, so after much heaving and shoving with the barge pole - which snaps - we decide to ring George and Sue on Vertrouwen who drop everything to come to our rescue. They are about an hour upstream of us.

By this time there is a dozen or more "Frenchies", gawping at us from the bridge high above us and shouting advice. What do we do? We decide, much to their amazement, to do what the French always do- just like the English stop for tea, the French always stop for lunch. So, whilst we await our galant rescuer's arrival, we sit down for our lunch and, dare I say it, some more bubbly.

It takes several attempts to pull her off and one of the French audience must have rung the Pompiers who in turn must have rung the river men who eventually turn up just after the last- attempt to pull her off succeeded. Anyway we all laughed a lot, mainly at my expense I have to say.

 

Patrick at the tiller.

There is a rather obvious moral to this story, -  best left unsaid! The rest of the trip is uneventful in comparison but I'm pretty sure everyone will remember "champagne on the rocks" and how very enjoyable it was. Thanks for coming!